Tag Archives: fall/winter 2011/2012

Alena Akhmadullina Fall/Winter 2011/12 collection

April 11, 2011

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Last week I was looking at photos from Moscow Fashion Week and discovered Alena Akhmadullina's Fall/Winter 2011/12 collection. Although New York, London, Milan and Paris are undoubtedly the most important cities for fashion, narrowing your perspective to only these 4 places is very limiting because fashion is also happening elsewhere, indeed to a lesser extent, but not in a less interesting way.

Alena Akhmadullina Fall/Winter 2011/12 Alena Akhmadullina Fall/Winter 2011/12

Alena Akhmadullina Fall/Winter 2011/12 Alena Akhmadullina Fall/Winter 2011/12

See the full collection here.

Alena Akhmadullina's F/W11 collection reminds me of Dolce & Gabbana S/S11 in the sense that it's honest and unpretentious, no complicated concept, just wearable clothes. When it comes to conceptual vs. non-conceptual fashion, I really love both, but I also think conceptual sometimes transforms into trying too hard. Collections like Akhmadullina's and Dolce & Gabbana's aren't trying too hard. They're not even trying. They just are. If they catch the right moment to just be, it's enough.

What I find the most appealing about Akhmadullina's collection is its different aesthetics, far away from NY, London, Paris and Milan. The clothes are actually so nice. She used a lot of prints that have the dreaded "granny" potential, but it's like they're evoking another world, not strange associations. The fur doesn't stand out (you can't take it too seriously either when it's gracing a sort of slouchy (but still super lovely) coat!), although other designers are always making a big deal out of it (most recently Prada with their S/S11 fox fur stoles) because it has to be seen.

There was this image-slash-stereotype of "Russian style" that us foreigners had (or still have?) some time ago; it was extremely BLING BLING, heavy fur coats, big diamonds, too much perfume or cologne, everything covered in logos. Then about 2 years ago everyone was suddenly saying Russians had started dressing classier. I can't vouch for any of this because I don't have connections with Russia, but if it's true, maybe it has something to do with the fact that the fur in this collection is rather understated.

Alena Akhmadullina Fall/Winter 2011/12 Alena Akhmadullina Fall/Winter 2011/12

Despite the different aesthetics, this collection resonates with me as much as the "Western" collections I like. It has this universal quality that's the essential part of good fashion no matter its origin.

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Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2011/12: Ice queen inspiration

March 9, 2011

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Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2011/12 details Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2011/12 dress

Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2011/12 Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2011/12 shoes

While Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2011 was a majestic tribute to McQueen's work, the new Fall/Winter 2011/12 collection is more about Sarah Burton moving towards doing her own thing. A transition point between McQueen's legacy and Burton's vision of McQueen's legacy.

There are several stunning, breathtaking pieces in this collection, but overall it lacks the wow factor of McQueen's work. Nothing terrible for a collection at such a not yet certain point, though. It'd be foolish to expect all future McQueen collections will be McQueen and only McQueen, or to believe that Sarah Burton can somehow become his reincarnation. I'm looking forward to her developing her own wow factor.

Oh, and these shoes? You need a licence to kill.

Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2011/12 Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2011/12

Photos from vogue.com

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Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012: My first runway show

February 28, 2011

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I saw my first runway show at Milan Fashion Week last weekend. Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012 was a dark hodgepodge of Armani's signature no-nonsense aesthetic and pure magic. Like I said in my previous post, it was also one of the most beautiful experiences in my life.

Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012 show

Moments before the start of Emporio Armani F/W 11/12

I arrived to Milan by train from Trieste on Friday afternoon. Being exorbitantly excited probably had everything to do with me not remembering anything before the show, save for the last minute glitch with my invite. On Friday morning I received an email from the Emporio Armani international office asking me for my Milan address so they could send me the (physical) invite. I replied, but when I checked with the reception desk in my hotel late in the evening, the invite still hadn't arrived.

I was more than a bit worried because being a fashion show neophyte, I didn't know if the physical invite was absolutely mandatory to go in or your name on the list was enough. Thankfully, it turned out to be the second.

The show took place at Teatro Armani, a wonderfully minimalist and spacious Tadao Ando building in Via Bergognone. I got there with my friend 10 minutes before the show (I was attending the first show at 10:30 and she the second one hour later), carrying a bag full of extra heavy photo equipment plus my Galaxy Tab with the email I'd received the day before.

Although someone had told me security was a lot more strict now compared to previous years, the number of security guards at the entrance still came as a surprise. I had to show my email to different security personnel 3 times until I reached the girls in charge of the guest list inside. I explained that I was invited but didn't receive the invitation. They checked the list, found my name and gave me a show pass.

I was in!

Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012 show pass

My show pass. ST stands for standing. 10:30 is when the show was supposed to begin.

I passed through a long hallway and found myself in a large room where people were already waiting in line for standing spots. I left my coat in the wardrobe and joined the queue (how British!). Some people had the pretty white invites, but some had been given the same passes as I (I later found out we hadn't received our invites because there simply wasn't enough time to send all of them).

Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012

Waiting to enter the venue. The space on the left is where guests were coming in to be seated.

In the above photo, the space on the left is where I saw Anna Wintour for the first time. She (and her bodyguard) was among the first to arrive to the show when most people were still outside. I think I started shaking when I saw her, it was just so unbelivable. Although I don't always like or agree with what she does, the amount of respect I have for this woman is tremendous.

The show was late, but I didn't care because I was so happy to be there. After the VIPs had arrived, they let us in as well. The venue was dark with just a little bit of light, some chilling music and a lot of chatter.

Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012 show

Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012 show - photographers

Photographers at the end of the runway

Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012 show

Then the show began. It was an amazing sensory experience: music blasted to the max, unbearable heat, super strong lights, everything I'd usually run away from, but it fit the occasion like a glove. When I saw Anna Dello Russo standing on the opposite side of the venue, I realized how damn perfect everything was and how I'd been wishing and waiting for this for so long. A few discreet tears rolled down my cheeks (they didn't even mess up my non-waterproof mascara), accompanied by a huge smile.

The best thing about the show was that I loved the collection. Imagine the horror of seeing your first runway show and not liking the very reason it was organized for? The collection is more serious than the usual Emporio Armani, which was brilliantly executed. All the clothes were black and accessories mostly colorful. I could relate to it well because I've been dressing this way (all black + one colorful accessory) for years.

Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012 show

Can you spot Anna Dello Russo?

Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012 show

This little dog had the honor to close the show.

As soon as the show was over, Anna Wintour was the very first to stand up and leave. The exit was on the opposite side from where she sat, so by the time she got there, a group of people had already amassed. Her bodyguard paved her way through the crowd and poof!, she was gone, just like Cinderella.

Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012 show

Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012 show seats

Most people left their invites on the seats or on the floor.

Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012 show

On my way out I bumped into Anna Dello Russo giving a quick interview. I love her vibrant fashion week outfits, she truly takes the art of standing out to the next level.

Anna Dello Russo at Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012

In the meantime, a ton of people had gathered outside - those waiting for the second show as well as photographers wanting to catch people leaving the first show.

Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012 show

Busy entrance before the second show.

Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012 show - outside

The police outside Teatro Armani during the second show. The street was closed for all traffic unrelated to the shows.

I stayed outside until the end of the second show (I was waiting for my friend). It was mostly uneventful, except for a fascinating flash mob - about 15 people showed up on their bicycles and started ringing the bells. They did this for about 5 minutes and I thought we'd all go deaf. Then a boy came up to me and randomly asked me how to get into the show.

When I heard the loud music signaling the start of the second show, it hit me that "my" show was already over. I wasn't in an "I can't believe I was there!" mood because I knew I belonged there, it was just that the show had been my number one thought for so long and now that it was over I didn't have a clear idea what to do next.

On our way back to the center, my friend and I saw the super nice girls who had given me the show pass earlier at the metro station. They asked me how I liked the show and the only thing I could say was "amazing" because it was impossible to put all my feelings into one or two cultured sentences.

I hope I managed to say more with this post.

Me at Corso Como 10 after Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012 show

This was my outfit. I wore a Tadashi dress (bought on a very cold December evening in Gorizia), Marjeta Grošelj belt and Zara over-the-knee boots.

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Big thanks to:

- Everyone I've been in touch with at Armani in the past month (Ms P, Ms S, the girls at the show ...) - for being incredibly nice and professional.

- My mom - for going to Milan with me, and everything else.

- My brother - for lending me his photo equipment.

- My dad - for nothing in particular this time (I probably just can't remember), but it'd be wrong to leave you out.

- Most of all, Rosa.

I'm also very happy to say this is not the end of the fashion month for me. I'm flying to Paris on Friday for another event. I haven't been to Paris since I was 9, but for the past 6 months my sixth sense was telling me I'd end up there soon. As always, it was one hundred percent right.

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I saw the Emporio Armani F/W 11/12 show!

February 26, 2011

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Dear friends,
I have some wonderful news to share with you. I saw the Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012 show in Milan this morning. I had wanted to let you know I'd be attending before I left for Milan, but I ran out of time.

The show was one of the most beautiful experiences in my life. I'm extremely honored, grateful and happy to have been a part of it.

Expect a more detailed update on Monday!

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Francesco Scognamiglio F/W 11/12: The red dress

February 24, 2011

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Francesco Scognamiglio Fall/Winter 2011/2012 red dress

This Francesco Scognamiglio F/W 11/12 dress has my dream proportion of skin and fabric. Like intervals of silence in music, sometimes lack of fabric speaks volumes. I'm not talking about revealing your skin in the traditional "dressing sexy" manner. This dress is much more intelligent.

So much that it might even surpass the idea of sexiness.

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