Dressful

With last week's news of Anna Dello Russo designing an accessories collection for H&M and revival of the brand Elsa Schiaparelli, I've been asking myself what is rotten in the fashion industry that the most exciting designers seem to be non-designers and dead designers.

Anna Dello Russo for H&M

I.
When the press release announcing the collaboration between Anna Dello Russo and H&M landed in my inbox, my initial thought was that these collaborations are getting old. While I had anticipated a number of them in the past with curiosity and enthusiasm, they no longer feel as exclusive and special because there is no space to breathe between one collaboration and the next. Once the hype in the media and online has subsided, you just know there's going to be a new collaboration tugging at your subconscious consumerist strings very soon. This cyclic course should really be linear because the way to progress is innovation, not repetition.

Though this is of little concern to H&M as their marketing strategy is collaborating with big fashion names – not even necessarily designers – to bring in tons of money, I would be infinitely more excited about high street brands employing young, emerging designers. It would reintroduce suspense and freshness, two elements almost all previous H&M collaborations have lacked (if you're familiar with the designer's signature style, you have a good grip of what the collaboration will be like) and contribute towards a less self-obsessed fashion industry.

Elsa Schiaparelli hats

II.
While H&M's decision to collaborate with Anna Dello Russo makes perfect sense in terms of appeasing the evergrowing online crowd of fashion bloggers, readers and commentators, the news about the revival of Schiaparelli took me by surprise. Diego Della Valle, CEO of Tod's, plans to open Maison Schiaparelli in Paris during menswear fashion week in June. His statement that "we won't be chasing the commercialism of the fashion world: this is a project that aims for the best in terms of taste and quality, and will provide all the calm necessary to achieve that" (source) indicates a possible radical shift in the brand's vision and aesthetic, much like revived Balmain. Elsa Schiaparelli was anything but toned down with her claw gloves, trompe l'oeil designs, walloping headpieces and lobster dresses. If she were alive today, her number one customer would be Anna Dello Russo!

The aim of the old-new brand is to revisit Elsa Schiaparelli's ideas in a contemporary style. Has fashion really become so dull that nobody has their own ideas? I don't think so. Besides, Schiaparelli's ideas were revolutionary in that moment in time. They would not have the same effect today, no matter how skillfully appropriated and turned inside out. It was easier to stand out in the 1930s than during reign of singers wearing raw meat to get attention.

III.
Refusing to employ new talent and ideas in the fashion industry is an enormous and deliberate waste of creative potential. As a creative person, you can achieve a lot by self-initiative, but you improve the most when you have to meet increasing demands that do not depend entirely on yourself.

The fashion industry is increasing its demands everywhere but in creativity.

Gucci, Prada, Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2011

I'm completely and utterly stoked about the bright and bold colors trend for spring and summer 2011 going mainstream because I love it when city streets are infused with colors.

When I was in Zara stores in Milan and Paris during fashion week, checking how they'd styled the mannequins, I saw looks consisting solely of bright pieces for the first time ever (I was born too late to have witnessed the events of the 1980s and geniously revolting aerobic outfits firsthand). Grass-green pants, fuchsia shirt, ultramarine blue blazer.

I never imagined an insane ensemble like this could look so awesome.

I paused in deep thought amidst ardent shoppers rushing from one end of the store to the fitting rooms and back (at Zara there's always that one more thing you have to try on): "This is a revolution!"

Paris didn't quite catch up on the trend, but Milan streets were full of Prada, full of Jil Sander. It was as if someone had declared a "Dress like Anna Dello Russo" week and the participants cultivated the most colorful eccentricity. They looked like Zara mannequins, only a bajillion times more expensive.

(Of course, as you can see in my report from the Emporio Armani F/W 11/12 show, Anna Dello Russo was the uncrowned queen of bright and bold fashion week outfits. Someone really should give her that crown though. Why else do you think she's wearing fruits on her head if not to compensate?)

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Imagine my disappointment when days later I went to Zara in Ljubljana and discovered it's having only a fraction of Milan's exploding colors party? The mannequins are shyly clad in one, maximum two bright pieces at once. The rest of the look is neutrals.

It's nothing compared to the vibrant, brilliantly bold clothes that had me so excited in Milan and Paris, so excited I'm still thinking about them two weeks later.

The looks also entirely lack energy, as if there isn't a single person in this city who could wake up one morning fashion-starved and scream at the top of her lungs, "I want to be Anna Dello Russo today!"

Anna Dello Russo would probably cry at the sight of it. Remembering Milan, I almost did too.

It was then that I realized I'm sick of Ljubljana having the reputation of not being really fashion-forward when this impression is often a result of what someone else has selected for us.

I saw my first runway show at Milan Fashion Week last weekend. Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2011/2012 was a dark hodgepodge of Armani's signature no-nonsense aesthetic and pure magic. Like I said in my previous post, it was also one of the most beautiful experiences in my life.

Moments before the start of Emporio Armani F/W 11/12

I arrived to Milan by train from Trieste on Friday afternoon. Being exorbitantly excited probably had everything to do with me not remembering anything before the show, save for the last minute glitch with my invite. On Friday morning I received an email from the Emporio Armani international office asking me for my Milan address so they could send me the (physical) invite. I replied, but when I checked with the reception desk in my hotel late in the evening, the invite still hadn't arrived.

I was more than a bit worried because being a fashion show neophyte, I didn't know if the physical invite was absolutely mandatory to go in or your name on the list was enough. Thankfully, it turned out to be the second.

The show took place at Teatro Armani, a wonderfully minimalist and spacious Tadao Ando building in Via Bergognone. I got there with my friend 10 minutes before the show (I was attending the first show at 10:30 and she the second one hour later), carrying a bag full of extra heavy photo equipment plus my Galaxy Tab with the email I'd received the day before.

Although someone had told me security was a lot more strict now compared to previous years, the number of security guards at the entrance still came as a surprise. I had to show my email to different security personnel 3 times until I reached the girls in charge of the guest list inside. I explained that I was invited but didn't receive the invitation. They checked the list, found my name and gave me a show pass.

I was in!

My show pass. ST stands for standing. 10:30 is when the show was supposed to begin.

I passed through a long hallway and found myself in a large room where people were already waiting in line for standing spots. I left my coat in the wardrobe and joined the queue (how British!). Some people had the pretty white invites, but some had been given the same passes as I (I later found out we hadn't received our invites because there simply wasn't enough time to send all of them).

Waiting to enter the venue. The space on the left is where guests were coming in to be seated.

In the above photo, the space on the left is where I saw Anna Wintour for the first time. She (and her bodyguard) was among the first to arrive to the show when most people were still outside. I think I started shaking when I saw her, it was just so unbelivable. Although I don't always like or agree with what she does, the amount of respect I have for this woman is tremendous.

The show was late, but I didn't care because I was so happy to be there. After the VIPs had arrived, they let us in as well. The venue was dark with just a little bit of light, some chilling music and a lot of chatter.

Photographers at the end of the runway

Then the show began. It was an amazing sensory experience: music blasted to the max, unbearable heat, super strong lights, everything I'd usually run away from, but it fit the occasion like a glove. When I saw Anna Dello Russo standing on the opposite side of the venue, I realized how damn perfect everything was and how I'd been wishing and waiting for this for so long. A few discreet tears rolled down my cheeks (they didn't even mess up my non-waterproof mascara), accompanied by a huge smile.

The best thing about the show was that I loved the collection. Imagine the horror of seeing your first runway show and not liking the very reason it was organized for? The collection is more serious than the usual Emporio Armani, which was brilliantly executed. All the clothes were black and accessories mostly colorful. I could relate to it well because I've been dressing this way (all black + one colorful accessory) for years.

Can you spot Anna Dello Russo?

This little dog had the honor to close the show.

As soon as the show was over, Anna Wintour was the very first to stand up and leave. The exit was on the opposite side from where she sat, so by the time she got there, a group of people had already amassed. Her bodyguard paved her way through the crowd and poof!, she was gone, just like Cinderella.

Most people left their invites on the seats or on the floor.

On my way out I bumped into Anna Dello Russo giving a quick interview. I love her vibrant fashion week outfits, she truly takes the art of standing out to the next level.

In the meantime, a ton of people had gathered outside - those waiting for the second show as well as photographers wanting to catch people leaving the first show.

Busy entrance before the second show.

The police outside Teatro Armani during the second show. The street was closed for all traffic unrelated to the shows.

I stayed outside until the end of the second show (I was waiting for my friend). It was mostly uneventful, except for a fascinating flash mob - about 15 people showed up on their bicycles and started ringing the bells. They did this for about 5 minutes and I thought we'd all go deaf. Then a boy came up to me and randomly asked me how to get into the show.

When I heard the loud music signaling the start of the second show, it hit me that "my" show was already over. I wasn't in an "I can't believe I was there!" mood because I knew I belonged there, it was just that the show had been my number one thought for so long and now that it was over I didn't have a clear idea what to do next.

On our way back to the center, my friend and I saw the super nice girls who had given me the show pass earlier at the metro station. They asked me how I liked the show and the only thing I could say was "amazing" because it was impossible to put all my feelings into one or two cultured sentences.

I hope I managed to say more with this post.

This was my outfit. I wore a Tadashi dress (bought on a very cold December evening in Gorizia), Marjeta Grošelj belt and Zara over-the-knee boots.

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Big thanks to:

- Everyone I've been in touch with at Armani in the past month (Ms P, Ms S, the girls at the show ...) - for being incredibly nice and professional.

- My mom - for going to Milan with me, and everything else.

- My brother - for lending me his photo equipment.

- My dad - for nothing in particular this time (I probably just can't remember), but it'd be wrong to leave you out.

- Most of all, Rosa.

I'm also very happy to say this is not the end of the fashion month for me. I'm flying to Paris on Friday for another event. I haven't been to Paris since I was 9, but for the past 6 months my sixth sense was telling me I'd end up there soon. As always, it was one hundred percent right.

Dressful is going to celebrate its half-birthday one of these days. To complement this merry occasion, here's a collection of the posts you've liked the best so far. I'd like to say huge thanks to those of you who share my posts on Facebook and Twitter. This blog wouldn't be where it is today without you. The same goes for everyone who takes the time to leave me great comments. Thank you!

10 best posts in Dressful's first 6 months:

1. 20 sarcastic tips to become a popular fashion blogger :: 20 funniest fashion blogger cliches from Jeffrey Campbell Lita boots to photographer boyfriends!
2. Franca Sozzani trashes fashion bloggers - or does she? :: My reply to Franca Sozzani's article in which she compares fashion bloggers to diseases.
3. 10 easy tips to promote your fashion blog and get more followers :: How can you effectively promote your fashion blog and get more followers? Check out these easy 10 tips!
4. Fashion blogs and self-promotion: How much is too much? :: Many fashion bloggers are resorting to aggressive self-promotion to get more visitors. Does it pay off in the long run?
5. Vogue India racism: Only light skin is beautiful! :: Vogue India promotes an extremely narrow standard of female beauty - light skin is a must!
6. 10 most desirable shoes from Spring/Summer 2011 runways :: List of the 10 most desirable shoes from Spring/Summer 2011 fashion weeks.
7. Anna Dello Russo: How fashion blogs made her a style icon :: Anna Dello Russo became incredibly popular because of the fashion blogging revolution. Find out how she won the hearts of the most influential fashion bloggers!
8. Jane Doe: Belgrade's most inspiring vintage shop :: Jane Doe vintage shop's cozy atmosphere, great selection of items and lavish decoration set an example for all other vintage stores.
9. How I bought a tie with little elephants :: I fell in love with Salvatore Ferragamo ties as a child in Florence, but it wasn't until many years later that I finally bought one.
10. Fashion is art, not trivial! :: Fashion isn't frivolous; it functions on the very same principles as "traditional" art forms.

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Tommy Ton of Jak & Jil shot an editorial titled A Renaissance of Style for the October 2010 issue of Vogue Nippon. This is my favorite blogger/magazine collaboration to date; not only do the photos retain Tommy's signature quirks (focusing on accessories, street locations and models walking instead of posing still), he also pushed his style to another creative level appropriate for a major print publication.

The third-to-last photo might be an homage to Anna Dello Russo (well-deserved as she was the one who got Tommy this gig); if memory serves me well, he's photographed her in a similar pose before. It's also kind of endearing that he would have the models look so distant and aloof, as if he still sees himself as a fashion outsider having trouble approaching the beautiful people who fascinate him. Photo number 6 reminds me of stylist Catherine Baba whom Tommy often photographs in humongous coats (great styling). The ideas behind this shoot are so clever and its atmosphere so sophisticated that I truly hope Tommy Ton will continue to collaborate with Vogue in the future.

Styled by Aurora Sansone
Models: Suzanne Diaz, Tatiana Cotliar

Thanks to MAGstyle from The Fashion Spot for the scans.