Dressful

The city is slowly sinking into depths of winter. In this chilly and monochromatic transitory period, it feels unseemly to wear my retractable winter coat. Despite low enough temperatures, to me, the emergence of long coats in the streets signifies November, Christmas lights they always put up too early, and whimsical atmosphere at the end of the year.

These jackets from the current Hogan by Lagerfeld capsule collection are exactly what I'd like to wear these days. Less serious than coats but just as warm, they became my instant favorite months ago at the Hogan by Karl Lagerfeld Fall/Winter 2011/2012 presentation in Paris. The first jacket's beetle shine (actually a graffiti effect created by silver brushstrokes on black leather) corresponds brilliantly with Chanel Péridot, my go-to nail polish for the season.

I finished this season's fashion week tour tonight in Paris, attending the presentation of the Hogan by Karl Lagerfeld Spring/Summer 2012 capsule collection at Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild. This is Lagerfeld's third collaboration with Hogan (see my photos of Fall/Winter 2011/2012). A mostly black and white collection is accompanied by a book of sketches and photos of models Bianca Balti and Jacquelyn Jablonski by Lagerfeld.

The pieces were presented on an enormous sleek, black construction spanning across five rooms (the event design was a joint effort of Karl Lagerfeld and Hogan's creative teams). Small white candles added the bit of magic that comes more than handy when you're launching a new collection. There has to be beauty with a pinch of drama. The presentation and the well thought-out collection had (have) both - after all, this is fashion!

Hogan and Lagerfeld showed sneakers and patent ballet flats whose main theme is wearability. Sneakers are made of black or white python, two-toned nappa leather and rubber - a juxtaposition of luxurious and ordinary materials. You'll appreciate them if you understand the difficulty of coming across sneakers you don't want to immediately dismiss as a fashion crime.

Black technical nylon trench coats and gorgeous fitted soft leather jackets with zippers meant to be worn as a second skin. There are also zippers on the back of the jackets for a better fit. If unzipped, imagine all the ways you can wear them and the new dimension it adds to your outfit!

I loved the clutches with a bubble pattern (a similar pattern is also used in larger bags and flats). The collection is incredibly consistent; the pieces create a distinctive, uniform-like look paired with one another - a look that ranges from cosmopolitan to tough rockstar glamour, the latter mostly due to super skinny high rise jeans. It's unmistakably Hogan, but it takes a designer of Lagerfeld's skill to give wearable, practical pieces that oh so necessary pinch of drama.

I'm flying back home tomorrow and like half a year ago, I feel sad about leaving Paris so soon, postponing the occasion to have more time for its streets and spirits. It's a beautiful opportunity to come here for fashion week, though, and I wouldn't prefer it any other way. See you next season.

Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2011 sandals

Don't you think it's curious how the fashion system lumps together spring and summer, fall and winter? Indeed having shows twice a year is enough of a chaos as it is. It'd be all kinds of complicated to double the number in order to specifically cater to every season, but the latter is precisely what I do. I dress differently in spring than in summer. There are colors and clothes that fit fall but not winter.

With the Fall/Winter 2011/12 collections being presented when the Northern Hemisphere's Fall/Winter 2010/11 was just coming to an end (to me, the 24 hours I spent in Paris for the Hogan by Karl Lagerfeld event were the first hint of spring, Milan was still very cold), i.e. more than half a year in advance, I too am skipping one season, already thinking about what I'm going to wear this summer.

Artdeco nail polish

Due to my love for black, many beautiful colors are severely underrepresented in my closet. One of them is coral red, to which I'll be giving more attention this summer - these Emporio Armani sandals (sans heel!) are going to be my "everyday shoes". You just slip them on - shoe hassle is for winter, not summer.

I'd also like to get a summer dress in another bright color (maybe orange?), not very expensive so I won't fret too much if it gets ruined (who am I kidding though - I haven't ruined a piece of clothing since I was what, 6?). A dress for meeting friends in town after the sun has set and it's not so devastatingly hot any more.

I was thinking about dressing for spring 3 months ago. Perhaps this means I'm adapting to the fashion industry's insanely rapid pace. It can be overwhelming, but on the other hand, it's fascinating that compared to the rest of the world, fashion is always one step ahead. Why not?

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Impressions from Milan and Paris I wanted to share with you that didn't find their place in other posts:

MILAN
Seeing the genius and bold Prada Spring/Summer 2011 collection in store, squealing at the sight of my favorite blue platform sandals.

Everyone wearing shoes from the Prada Spring/Summer 2011 collection.

Realizing that after a long time I belong somewhere again, confirming my October decision that fashion is what I'm going to do in life.

PARIS
An incredibly elegant 40-something woman wearing a Chanel suit and an orange Birkin, looking at sheer, pastel-colored tops at Zara.

The alluring old Guerlain store on the Champs-Elysées that I didn't have time for.

Stylish Parisiennes in flats, despite fashion week demanding more effort.

Paris being so cosmopolitan and relaxed that I wonder why it took me all these years to realize it.

Last weekend I took a quick trip to Paris because I was invited to the Hogan by Karl Lagerfeld Fall/Winter 2011/12 presentation and party. The event took place at Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, a beautiful old building in Paris' 8^th district. I arrived there at 6, armed with almost all of my brother's photo equipment (... my shoulders) and wearing high heels.

It was as if Milan Fashion Week hadn't taught me anything, but hey, can't go against a special occasion!

Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild entrance

Before entering the dark, spacious room where the collection was exhibited, you had to go through a labyrinth of black walls and photos. Lagerfeld took black-and-white portraits of his 13 favorite people from the world fashion and art wearing pieces from the new collection. A little sneak peek to get us excited seconds before seeing the pieces in life.

The presentation room was full of stylish display cases and racks:

These jackets are going to be huge. They're ultra-light and very warm, which makes them appropriate even for the more severe winter weather. I love the asymmetrical diagonals on the white bomber jacket and all the different textures - undoubtedly the best thing about the presentation was that you could touch everything!

Many jackets are hand painted with ink to achieve an embossed effect. They used high-tech materials and leather for the collection. Its main idea is comfort; the pieces are practical and straightforward. I really appreciate that the collection is so full of details and unusual techniques. Jackets and sneakers, i.e. everyday wear, are often not very creative in order to stay practical, but the ideas and work behind this collection took these pieces to a new level.

Oversized detachable collar and mittens. Inspiration? Kitchen gloves. The collar is my favorite piece in the collection. You can see it with the white jacket above, but I like that you can wear it with practically everything, it's great for mixing and matching.

Black and white: signature Karl Lagerfeld colors

I giggled when I saw these platform shoes. Graffiti are often still understood as marginal in our culture. Considering this, the Hogan by Karl Lagerfeld graffiti logo can be interpreted as somewhat devalued. The genius idea behind this is that even a devalued logo is still a logo, so those wishing to let the world know they bought Hogan by Lagerfeld shoes will be able to do so nevertheless (it would be crazy not to give people this option in this day and age).

There were constantly changing holograms based on Lagerfeld's sketches for the collection in every display case.

The presentation was over at 8 when VIP guests started arriving to the party. I went upstairs for the photocall and the first celebrity who showed up was Karl Lagerfeld. I thought he'd be about as intimidating as Anna Wintour (who I'd seen the week before at Emporio Armani in Milan), but he seemed to enjoy the photographers' attention quite a bit, which was not intimidating at all.

Diego Della Valle (CEO of Tod's) and Karl Lagerfeld

Of course, Karl wasn't the only celebrity at the party:

Leigh Lezark

Elisa Sednaoui. Most photogenic person I've ever seen.

Paloma Faith

Elodie Bouchez

Du Juan

M.I.A. You can't see it in the photo, but her manicure matches the pattern on her romper.

Natalia Vodianova

Shu Pei

Lou Doillon

Jessica Stam. She kept making faux-bored grimaces, but she's so pretty not even that made her look weird.

Jessica Stam's amazing sandals

Elisa Sednaoui and Leigh Lezark

When I was leaving, I almost bumped into Leigh Lezark on the stairs. I've never seen more celebrities in one place - pretty much everyone who was in Paris for fashion week came to the party. It was exciting and glamorous and Paris at night was the perfect backdrop for the occasion.

I'm very honored to have been invited to this event. After Hogan and Emporio Armani, once the fashion week adrenaline has calmed down, I'll have many stories and photos to return to until the next season.