Dressful

Yesterday I attended the opening of the Between Sense & Sanity exhibition by Young@Squat. Young@Squat is a collective of young Slovenian fashion designers (Ivan Rocco, Petja Zorec, Špela Hvale, Peter Movrin, Anđela Lukanović, Ana Jelinič, Nena Florjančič, Katja Magister, Sanija Reja, Dajana Ljubičić, Nina Tomažin and photographer Peter Giodani). This is the first time they're showing in London. With fashion week fast approaching, Young@Squat couldn't wish for better timing.

Nina Tomažin jacket

We saw a heavy, red rose-strewn fabric you might find on a very old and kitschy sofa transformed into something avantgarde ...

Ana Jelinič jacket

Ivan Rocco jacket

I found Ivan Rocco's jacket particularly relevant in context of Burberry's image crisis in the past, and how their legendary check is perceived today. A few years ago, Burberry suffered because some British public figures with less than stellar reputation and bad style were often seen in public decked in Burberry check from head to toe. Around the same time, football fans started waving Burberry scarves during matches, another thing Burberry didn't want to be associated with. They then brought in photographer Mario Testino, who reestablished Burberry as a high-end luxury brand. Ivan Rocco (intentionally or not) translated this story into a garment with clashing green, gold quilted fabric, fur, and Burberry's Nova check. The result of mixing high and low culture is a really cool jacket.

Nena Florjančič dress

Nena Florjančič dress detail

Nena Florjančič has been receiving lots of praise for this technique.

Špela Hvale design

Katja Magister dress

The back side of Katja Magister's dress is even more interesting, but I couldn't get a photo because the space between the dress and the wall is tiny.

Sanija Reja dress

Petja Zorec dress

Petja Zorec dress detail

Dajana Ljubičić coat

Peter Movrin coat

Peter Movrin's coat made me think 'female Darth Vader'.

Anđela Lukanović dress and fabric

In the time when creativity and originality are often subordinate to safe design that sells, it was refreshing to see clothes that weren't made under commercial pressure. I'm happy that some of the most talented young fashion designers I know come from my home country – a sign that something is happening after all. May Young@Squat continue their beautiful tale of fashion as art in the future with lots of international success.

You can see the exhibition until February 19 at The Embassy of Slovenia, 10 Little College Street, London SW1P 3SH. After that, it'll travel to Dublin and Wales.

This morning I had the honor to be among the first guests of the Sens(n)ation exhibition showcasing a historic overview of Maison Martin Margiela's first line (défilé) collection from 1989 to 2011 (23 looks), as well as garments and accessories by renowned Slovenian designers. The exhibition, a joint effort of multibrand designer store Wolfova 5 and Projekt27, is curated absolutely comme il faut; fashion-wise, this is the event that finally put Ljubljana on a global scale.

There's quite a Margiela cult in Slovenian fashion circles, making Sens(n)ation even more sens(n)ational. In a way – though if you asked people in the street who Margiela was, I don't think you'd get many sensible replies – this exhibition will cater to the widest of tastes. Fashion people will love it (or at least appreciate it as usually you'd have to go to another country to see an exhibition on this level), passers-by (i.e. the uninitiated into the Noble Art of Conceptual Fashion) will be provoked by what fashion can be – fashion that is not stripped to strict functionality, fashion beyond trends.

I should note that the historic overview is actually very general public-friendly. There are no covered faces and other more or less bizarre facets that often alienate people from the complex world of Margiela; it's more about playing with sizes, materials, inspirations and humor. When you see the exhibition, I suggest you pick up the little booklet with details about each look so you won't miss out on Margiela's clever tricks.

1. Polka dot print dress, S/S 2006
2. Setup
3. Shirt with front made out of leather gloves, S/S 2001
4. Theater costume-inspired jacket, S/S 1993
5. Sleeveless "tailor dummy" jacket, S/S 1997
6. Setup
7. Size 78 coat and jeans, F/W 2000
8. Pink shouldered jacket, "destroyed" jeans, S/S 2008
9. Velvet dress, mohair cardigan, F/W 1995
10. Double-breasted sleeveless jacket, S/S 2004

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Regarding the second part of the exhibition, I cannot help but wonder how (Slovenian) designers feel about their work being displayed in the same space as Margiela's; it's an enormous challenge, yet the selection is careful enough that the Slovenian designers' part feels like a logical continuation of the Margiela part. Each designer has contributed two looks, the dominant color being black. Three accessories collections have been designed especially for Sens(n)ation: bags-sculptures by Marjeta Grošelj, jewelry by Srečko Molk and glass hats by Ana Lazovski.

1. Dress by JSP Jelena and Svetlana Proković
2. Dresses by Sanija Reja
3. Bag by Marjeta Grošelj
4. Sweater and dress by Dajana Ljubičić

Most of the designers are part of the younger generation; I miss humor in their otherwise beautiful, well-constructed garments, the same humor Margiela has in his little finger. On the other hand, I understand that creative insouciance can only be achieved after you have fallen and risen again a thousand times. A quality of the masters.

The exhibition will be open from November 25 to December 4. Free admission.
Galerija Jakopič, Slovenska 9, Ljubljana.